ingredients

Allantoin is a beneficial ingredient for all skin types, but it is mainly used in products intended for sensitive skin. Among its benefits and features are:
1. It is a very powerful moisturizing agent - it prevents dryness and irritation. it is suitable for sensitive skin due to the fact that it is non-irritating.
2. It is a very good exfoliator. It has strong keratolytic properties, which allows it to soften and remove hardened and solidified skin surfaces. It keeps the skin soft and silky because the layer of dead cells is removed. It can be used successfully on skin affected by eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis.
3. It has a calming and healing effect on wounds and scars. It is frequently used to treat irritations and eczema.
4. It is a moisturizing ingredient - it prevents the loss of water between the layers of the skin (TEWL - trans epidermal water loss, PIA - imperceptible water loss) and retains water in the skin cells, making the skin feel supple, elastic and "full".
5. In addition to removing dead cells from the surface of the skin, allantoin also increases the rate of cell renewal, which leads to new, more elastic skin. 6. It has strong anti-aging effects, being a support for collagen synthesis. Allantoin works well in combination with silicone and other emollient agents. It is not recommended to use it together with exfoliating acids such as AHA and BHA because their combination can cause irritation.

The components of the aloe vera plant include minerals, polyphenols, vitamins, polysaccharides (acemannan) and amino acids beneficial to the skin. In 2009, an extensive research summarized 40 studies regarding the use of aloe vera for dermatological purposes. They all concluded that aloe vera can have results in reducing the symptoms of psoriasis, dermatitis, burns and inflammation. It has calming, moisturizing and antioxidant effects on the skin, helping the complexion to look fuller and brighter.

The components of the aloe vera plant include minerals, polyphenols, vitamins, polysaccharides (acemannan) and amino acids beneficial to the skin. In 2009, an extensive research summarized 40 studies regarding the use of aloe vera for dermatological purposes. They all concluded that aloe vera can have results in reducing the symptoms of psoriasis, dermatitis, burns and inflammation. It has calming, moisturizing and antioxidant effects on the skin, helping the complexion to look fuller and brighter.

Chamomile extract has soothing properties for the skin. When applied to the skin, it reduces inflammation and skin irritation. It also has an antibacterial effect, making it particularly useful in treating acne, skin with cuts and minor burns. It also contains minerals, which renew the skin and rejuvenate it to reduce the effect of aging.

Arbutin is a natural compound found in many plants such as bearberry, blueberries and cranberries. It is a type of glycoside that is derived from hydroquinone, a substance known for its skin lightening properties.

When applied to the skin, arbutin is absorbed into the cells where it takes on the role of melanin inhibitor. The enzyme responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin, known as tyrosinase, is effectively blocked by arbutin. This is significant because melanin is the pigment that gives skin its color. Overproduction of melanin can lead to dark spots and hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, and other pigment-related problems.

Arbutin doesn't just stop at inhibiting tyrosinase. It competes with the enzyme by binding to certain sites and preventing tyrosinase from fulfilling its role in producing melanin. This reduces melanin production and therefore fades hyperpigmentation. It also prevents the formation of new dark spots. Over time, arbutin helps the complexion become more even and radiant.

There are three main forms of arbutin used in skin care:

1. Alpha Arbutin: This is the most common and effective form of arbutin. Alpha arbutin is a glycoside. This means it is a glucose molecule attached to a hydroquinone. This allows a controlled, slow release of the active compound and thus provides a gentle brightening effect. It is suitable for all skin types.
2. Beta Arbutin: This form is less stable than its alpha counterpart. It is similar in action but may not provide the same level of effectiveness. As such, beta-arbutin is considered a milder option.
3. Deoxyarbutin: this is a synthetic derivative of arbutin. It is designed to provide stronger skin lightening effects. It is more stable than alpha and beta arbutin, but requires careful formulation and use. This is because higher concentrations can lead to skin irritation or sensitivity.

Alpha Arbutin skin benefits:

• Skin lightening: Alpha arbutin inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, responsible for the production of melanin. This helps reduce hyperpigmentation, including melasma and age spots. It leaves the skin looking brighter and more even.
• Gentle on the skin: Unlike other skin lightening agents, alpha arbutin is known for its gentle action on the skin. Its slow release into the skin minimizes the risk of irritation. This makes it suitable for more sensitive skin.

Alpha arbutin can be used alongside other active skin care ingredients such as vitamin C, exfoliating acids and retinoids. This flexibility allows it to be part of a comprehensive skin care routine.

Alpha arbutin does not discolor the skin, but works to reduce excess pigmentation. As a result, it can be beneficial for people with different skin tones who want to address specific areas of discoloration.

The leaves of this plant contain a chemical ingredient called arbutin, recognized for its properties of removing pigment spots and brightening and evening out the complexion.

Arbutin is a form of hydroquinone that occurs naturally and works in the same way – it blocks the tyrosine enzyme that produces melanin (the brown pigment of the skin). Melanin is the skin's natural way of protecting itself against the sun's rays (UV radiation), but together with scars and hormonal changes, it can cause dark spots that never disappear.
Arbutin stops this production process of dark spots and in a few weeks of use, the new cells will have a lighter and uniform color.
In addition to anti-pigmentation properties, uva ursi extract also has antioxidant effects. The molecules protect the skin against the effects of UV radiation that cause wrinkles, loss of collagen and inflammation, being a powerful anti-aging remedy.

Medical Resources

International Journal of Toxicology 32(6) 442-453, Risk Assessment of Free Hydroquinone Derived from Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi folium Herbal Preparations

It contains a large amount of fatty acids, vitamin E and linoleic acid, which makes it one of the most nutritious and elastic oils for cosmetic use. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which allows it to temper a wide range of shortcomings caused by free radicals. It is often used to reduce scars and hyperpigmentation spots, but in long-term treatments. Medical studies have shown that it has the ability to repair the skin after exposure to the sun, reducing the associated pigment spots. Argan oil is used most often for its moisturizing properties, being a very good treatment for psoriasis or atopic dermatitis - it reduces itching, reduces skin inflammation, softens rough and peeling areas. Having antibacterial and antifungal properties, it treats and prevents skin infections. In this sense, it is applied at least 2 times a day. The strong combination of vitamin E and antioxidants helps the skin to heal faster, which is why it is recommended to be applied to wounds and cuts. According to a recent study, argan oil has strong anti-aging properties for menopausal women, restoring skin elasticity. Although it seems counterintuitive, being an oil, it has sebum-reducing properties, which recommends it for use in the case of oily or mixed skin.

Medical Resources:

1. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, Apr 1, 2011, Argan oil and other argan products: Use in dermocosmetology;
2. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, Jul 1, 2008, Argan oil: Occurrence, composition and impact on human health;
3. Activation of MITF by Argan Oil Leads to the Inhibition of the Tyrosinase and Dopachrome Tautomerase Expressions in B16 Murine Melanoma Cells, July 8, 2013
4. The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity, Jan 30, 2015

Vitamin C is touted as one of the best ingredients on the market for anti-aging support – and the key to maintaining a smooth, even and glowing complexion.

The antioxidant properties of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its role in collagen synthesis make vitamin C a vital molecule for skin health. Dietary and topical ascorbic acid have beneficial effects on skin cells, and some studies have shown that vitamin C can help prevent and treat ultraviolet (UV)-induced photodamage.

There are a lot of benefits of using vitamin C on the skin. For example, vitamin C:

• is safe for most skin types
• provides hydration
• can give a luminous appearance to the skin
• may reduce redness
• can reduce hyperpigmentation
• can reduce the appearance of under-eye circles
• help collagen production
• can protect against sun damage to the skin
• can soothe sunburns
• can help heal wounds

It is a type of clay with a high content of minerals (sodium, potassium, silicon, aluminum, magnesium) and a very high absorption capacity - it attracts and encapsulates dirt, sebum on the skin.
It has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, being used for irritated skin, psoriasis, eczema, atopic dermatitis. It is also used for skin exfoliation.
Due to the increased absorption capacity, it has a "tightening" effect on the skin, which reduces the appearance of pores. It is mostly used by people with mixed or oily skin, but in the right mix it can also be used by people with dry or sensitive skin.
It is not recommended to use together with AHA, BHA type acids or with retinoids.

Bisabolol, also known as alpha bisabolol, α-bisabolol and levomenol, is a natural component of essential oils and a monocyclic sesquiterpene alcohol obtained by distillation. The distilled version of bisabolol is a concentrated form commonly used in skin care formulas. Bisabolol is the main component of German chamomile and the magical ingredient that gives it its superpowers. It can also be found in the bark of the Candeia tree in Brazil, where most of the isolated forms of bisabolol on the cosmetic market come from. It was first discovered and isolated in 1951 and has since been studied for its various skin benefits. When used in a skin care formula, bisabolol serves as a powerful skin soothing agent and powerful antioxidant.

The benefits of Bisabolol for the skin:

• Soothes the skin – skin-soothing cosmetic ingredients work to reduce visible signs of irritation and sensitivity, including redness and uneven skin tone caused by environmental factors. Research shows that topical application of bisabolol can be helpful in visibly soothing the skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
• Antioxidant protection – antioxidants are vital for overall health. Antioxidants in skin care products help defend against environmental damage to the skin that ages the skin. Studies suggest that bisabolol has antioxidant potential, which means it can help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. And it's also well known that antioxidants can help boost skin vitality and improve the overall look and feel. In addition, when antioxidants are combined in a formula with skin rehydrating and rejuvenating ingredients, they work in synergy to deliver optimal results, leaving skin looking and feeling its best.
• It helps balance uneven skin tones – as mentioned above, the environmental factors our skin encounters on a daily basis take a toll, leaving most of us with hyperpigmentation, aka uneven skin tone. Studies suggest that bisabolol can inhibit melanin synthesis, helping to reduce the appearance of dark spots and even the appearance of skin tone.
• Improves absorption of active ingredients – one of the main functions of the skin barrier is to keep things out. But if those things are the good ingredients in skin care. Bisabolol helps to improve the penetration of care ingredients into the skin.

An excellent emollient and emulsifier, shea butter protects against skin dryness and accelerates the healing of superficial wounds and irritations. It has a slight photo-protective action and is rich in unsaturated fatty acids and vitamin E.

Shea butter has been used for centuries as a wrinkle reducer because the essential fatty acids found in butter help support the skin's natural collagen production, restoring its firmness. and elasticity.

The American Shea Butter Institute even claims that applying the butter will diminish the appearance of wrinkles in just four to six weeks.

Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum is a natural thickener and viscosity-enhancing ingredient that helps improve form textures. It is known for providing a non-sticky, soft and velvety feel.
It has excellent elasticity properties, being classified as a polysaccharide (complex sugar) which is moisturizing for the skin.
As a raw material, it is a white, odorless powder, soluble in water and noted for its wide compatibility with other ingredients. Caesalpinia spinosa gum has been deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. In cosmetic products, it is used in percentages between 0.1% - 2%

Calendula oil is obtained by macerating marigold petals in a carrier oil. Jaundices have strong antifungal, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic effects that make them useful in the treatment of eczema and wound healing.
Effects:
1. Soothes inflammation – Calendula oil is a natural remedy that contains anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties. It can soothe skin inflammation that is triggered by acne, sunburn, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema or even collagen breakdown. Calendula contains flavonoids, saponins and triterpenoids, which are known to have an anti-inflammatory effect.
2. Healing properties – helps to relieve dryness, flaking and etching. The healing properties come from calendula's ability to increase blood flow and oxygen to the skin. This increases blood flow to the skin, and that's exactly what helps the skin function at its healthiest.
3. Effectively treats acne - it is ideal for sensitive, oily and acne-prone skin. Having anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, it can help eliminate dark spots, blemishes, acne and acne scars. In addition, it can restore skin elasticity.
4. Moisturizing – Calendula oil has a light texture, which means it easily absorbs into the skin and can travel to the deepest layer to hydrate.
5. Provides light sun protection - Some studies show that it has sun protection capabilities, but not with the same efficiency as the already known mineral filters.
6. Stimulates Collagen Production – It is rich in antioxidants and can neutralize free radicals to prevent signs of aging such as wrinkles, fine lines and sagging. The abundance of antioxidants in calendula oil stimulates the synthesis of collagen - the key protein that enriches the skin's texture.

Citric acid is an alpha/beta hydroxy acid found naturally in citrus fruits such as lemons and limes. In skin care formulations, citric acid has protective antioxidant and corrective anti-aging effects, helping to reverse the visible signs of photodamage.

Citric acid works by exfoliating the top layer of dead skin cells to help unclog pores, even out skin tone, and soften and smooth skin. AHAs can also be used as pH adjusters. pH adjusters are ingredients added to products to ensure they are mild and non-irritating – not too acidic (low pH) or too basic (high pH). Most recently, citric acid has also been found to be important in healthy skin barrier function by maintaining optimal pH levels in areas of the skin that are essential for normal skin barrier function.

Citric acid skin care benefits include:

• Exfoliates to rid the skin of dead cells, promoting
exfoliation
• Helps unclog pores
• Targets the skin's moisturizing support matrix to reduce
the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• Helps to even out skin tone
• Helps to brighten, soften and smooth the skin

Citric acid is ideal for all ages and skin types.

Grapefruit is rich in vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, flavonoids, quercetin, etc. All extracts and oils are mainly antioxidants.
When applied topically, it protects the skin from damage caused by environmental free radicals. It can also help reverse damage already done to the skin.
The extract/oil is antibacterial in nature, so it can be used in anti-acne products. For acne products, the oil helps relieve congestion around the pimple-prone area.
It can also be used as a skin toner, which can provide an even skin tone and help eliminate any blemishes or discoloration.

Chamomilla Recutita (German chamomile) extract helps soothe, hydrate and protect the skin. Provides anti-inflammatory properties, antioxidants and moisturizing benefits.
The top benefit of German chamomile extract is its anti-inflammatory properties. It is rich in beneficial compounds such as chamazulene, apigenin and bisabolol, which can help calm inflammation and soothe irritated and itchy skin. This is why we find it in moisturizers and cleansers, especially for damaged, dry or irritated skin.
Fights itching and sun damage – has shown promise in reducing photodamage caused by UV exposure and can also soothe irritated, itchy skin. Chamomilla recutita flower extract has natural moisturizing properties that help lock moisture into the skin, making it a powerful additive to skin care products. Chamomile extract also has antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, which accelerates the healing or restoration of the skin after various aggressions from exposure to UV rays, to aesthetic procedures such as dermapen. According to the FDA (Food and Drug Administration), Chamomilla recutita flower extract is considered safe to use for cosmetic purposes.
In rare cases, however, Chamomilla recutita flower extract which is extremely high in bisabolol (an anti-inflammatory compound) may cause itching and contact dermatitis in some individuals. This is very rare and unlikely to occur unless you are using a highly concentrated Chamomilla recutita flower extract product.
It is generally safe to use even on allergy-prone and sensitive skin.

Collagen is a structural protein that exists in connective tissues, tendons, skin, bones and cartilage. It provides support and strength to these areas and helps with tissue repair, cellular communication, migration and the body's immune response.
The benefits of collagen
Collagen gives the skin strength and firmness. The use of collagen in skin care products has many benefits:
Improves skin elasticity;
Improves skin hydration;
Improves blood flow;
Heals wounds and prevents scars;
Prevents and reduces stretch marks;
Reduces visible cellulite;
Reduces dark spots (pigmentation);

The most common cause of collagen loss is age.
After about 25 years, the human body begins to slow down its collagen production, although this function will never disappear completely, as with elastin.
This natural decrease in collagen leads to thin skin and wrinkles that continue to deepen with age.
Sunlight and UV rays degrade collagen, causing skin to age rapidly.
Collagen is one of the most important proteins in the human body, and almost every system in the body needs collagen.

Cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract is a non-sensitizing plant extract.
Most types of cucumbers are composed of 95% water, and the other constituents mainly include ascorbic acid (vitamin C), caffeic acid (an antioxidant), fatty acids, the mineral silica, plus other trace minerals.
Due to its antioxidant activity, cucumber is often used as an ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics.

Cucumber contains fragrance components that are not skin sensitizing, so it can be used to enhance the natural fragrance of a cosmetic product without any problems.
Cucumber extract has anti-inflammatory properties and is also recommended for sunburns.
It can repair dry and damaged skin, restoring its smooth and velvety appearance.
It also has a pH identical to that of the skin, giving it a very hydrated appearance when applied topically.

Darkout – the extract obtained from the roots of the African plant called Hypoxis Rooperi and Caesalpinia Spinosa – the African tree commonly known as Tara. This modern formula, of organic origin, increases the luminosity of the skin, and its effectiveness has been supported by in vitro studies. It provides a clear and radiant skin tone, reducing visible and age-related pigmentation spots, discoloration, freckles and other skin pigmentation disorders.
Its action reduces melanin synthesis and improves collagen synthesis. It is a safe alternative to kojic acid, which is a by-product of the fermentation of rice used in the production of sake - indeed it effectively inhibits melanin production, but which can cause irritation and contact dermatitis.

Darkout is a new cosmetic ingredient of natural origin that evens skin tone, helping to create a brighter and more radiant complexion.
Cosmetic formulations containing Darkout benefit from its power to safely improve overall skin tone and help fade age spots, freckles and hyperpigmentation.
Its effects are confirmed by in vitro tests:
– glow: reduction of tyrosine hydroxylase (54%) and dopa-oxygenase (53%) activity, reduction of melanin synthesis (51%), inhibition of tyrosinase expression;
– antioxidant: inhibition of reactive oxygen species from human fibroblasts (50%);
– anti-aging: increasing the synthesis of collagen I (242%) and collagen III (186%).

Darkout – the extract obtained from the roots of the African plant called Hypoxis Rooperi and Caesalpinia Spinosa – the African tree commonly known as Tara. This modern formula, of organic origin, increases the luminosity of the skin, and its effectiveness has been supported by in vitro studies. It provides a clear and radiant skin tone, reducing visible and age-related pigmentation spots, discoloration, freckles and other skin pigmentation disorders.
Its action reduces melanin synthesis and improves collagen synthesis. It is a safe alternative to kojic acid, which is a by-product of the fermentation of rice used in the production of sake - indeed it effectively inhibits melanin production, but which can cause irritation and contact dermatitis.

Darkout is a new cosmetic ingredient of natural origin that evens skin tone, helping to create a brighter and more radiant complexion.
Cosmetic formulations containing Darkout benefit from its power to safely improve overall skin tone and help fade age spots, freckles and hyperpigmentation.
Its effects are confirmed by in vitro tests:
– glow: reduction of tyrosine hydroxylase (54%) and dopa-oxygenase (53%) activity, reduction of melanin synthesis (51%), inhibition of tyrosinase expression;
– antioxidant: inhibition of reactive oxygen species from human fibroblasts (50%);
– anti-aging: increasing the synthesis of collagen I (242%) and collagen III (186%).

Effects:
1. Detoxification – Reduces the likelihood of acne, clogged pores and blackheads. Plus, it gives you softer looking and feeling skin and a typically healthier glow. Best of all, it's all natural!
2. Helps fight acne – Dead Sea salt's skin-cleansing and pimple-preventing power lies in sulfur. Sulfur has antimicrobial houses and works further than salicylic acid for anti-pimple treatment. Dead Sea salt contains a generous amount of sulfur, which makes it remarkable for marks and stains.
3. Hydration – Dead Sea salt is a great moisturizer for dry skin. It contains magnesium, which hydrates the skin, strengthening the pores and the lipid barrier of the skin.
4. Helps in the fight against cellulite – The minerals in the Dead Sea salt beautify the metabolism of the skin cells and increase the blood flow in the areas where you apply it.
5. Muscle recovery (anti-inflammatory) – Dead Sea salt achieves this through its sodium and bromide content, which are considered anti-inflammatory. These minerals help to fix the placed muscle mass, giving you rest even in case of pain. Dead Sea salt even relieves chronic rheumatic diseases. These include rheumatoid arthritis, osteoarthritis of the knee, and psoriatic arthritis, to name a few.

Fructose is often called fruit sugar and is a type of sugar composed of glucose. It has water absorption properties for the skin.

Benefits: hydration

Ginkgo extract contains many beneficial phytochemical substances, the most well-known of which are flavone glycosides (33%) and terpenes (6%). These give it antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and soothing and anti-aging properties.
Gingko works as a vasodilator, opening up blood vessels so that blood and oxygen can move more freely between the body's cells. It has a high level of quercetin, which is a common and quite powerful antioxidant.
Effects:
1. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory due to the rich content of flavonoids. Due to its anti-inflammatory properties, it has been proven to help treat acne, eczema and many types of skin inflammation.
In addition to being a vasodilator, gingko also improves sebaceous secretions of the skin, improves tissue irrigation and stimulates cell metabolism.
2. Protecting skin cell membranes from oxidative stress damage caused by free radicals. The extract achieved this by scavenging fat radicals, along with nitric oxide and hydroxyl and oxoferryl radicals.

It is a basic ingredient in products intended to treat acne, eczema and other types of inflammation and redness due to its special antioxidant properties.

Medical Resources

Cosmetic Ingredient Review, "Safety Assessment of Ginkgo biloba-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics", 2017;

Clin Exp Dermatol. 2003 May;28(3):285-7;

Dermatology News, "Cosmeceutical Critique: Ginkgo Biloba", 2012

Chuarienthong, L. and Leelapornpisid, P. Clinical efficacy comparison of anti‐wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids. International journal of cosmetic science 32.2, 99-106 (2010);

Dal Belo, SE et al. Skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate and quercetin from green tea and Ginkgo biloba extracts conveyed in cosmetic formulations. Skin pharmacology and physiology 22.6, 299-304 (2009)

Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is one of the most widely used AHAs in skin care products.
AHAs are natural acids that come from plants. They consist of tiny molecules that are very easily absorbed by the skin. This makes them ideal for smoothing fine lines, improving skin texture and other anti-aging uses.

How Glycolic Acid Works:

• Glycolic acid has the smallest molecules of all AHAs – This allows glycolic acid to absorb into the skin and exfoliate it even better than other AHAs.
• Glycolic acid acts by accelerating cell turnover – Cu
in other words, it dissolves the bonds that hold skin cells together. In fact, your skin is able to shed dead cells faster than it would on its own.
• Glycolic acid causes the skin to produce more collagen – this is the protein that makes the skin firm, plump and elastic.

Benefits for the skin:

• Anti-aging: smoothes fine lines and improves skin tone and texture.
• Hydration: nourishes the skin and prevents it from drying out.
• Sun damage: fades dark spots caused by sun exposure and protects collagen from the sun.
• Complexion: Brightens skin when used regularly.
• Exfoliation: Prevents ingrown hairs and makes pores appear smaller, helping the skin to shed dead skin cells.
• Acne: Cleans pores to prevent blackheads, blackheads and inflamed breakouts.

In skin care, the most popular use of glycerin is as a humectant. Humectants are moisturizing ingredients that work by drawing water from the atmosphere to hydrate and soften the skin (other well-known humectants include hyaluronic acid and d-panthenol). Studies show that glycerin can penetrate the skin barrier and stay in the skin for continuous hydration for several days. It has also proven to be the most effective humectant ingredient commonly used in skin care formulations. However, due to its thick texture, glycerin can leave a sticky or sticky residue on the skin if used in excess. As such, it is often diluted with other moisturizing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, which has a light, almost watery texture (but can only effectively penetrate the skin barrier if the molecules are small enough).

Glycerin benefits the skin barrier by pulling water from the air to keep skin hydrated and minimize water loss. Glycerin can stay in the skin for a while, which helps the skin retain moisture even when exposed to harmful environmental aggressors such as pollution. Glycerin can also help the skin's natural lipids maintain their structure to further promote a healthy skin barrier.
In concentrations below 50%, research indicates that glycerin has emollient properties. Studies show that skin care products containing glycerin can significantly soften and improve the appearance of rough, dry skin. Products that contain glycerin in addition to other moisturizers can be particularly effective because glycerin can help improve the absorption of other topical ingredients, especially lipids (such as oil-rich plant extracts).
Glycerin improves the appearance of the skin for a youthful appearance
One of the most unique features of glycerin is its ability to temporarily plump the skin's appearance and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Studies show that glycerin penetrates the skin and increases the volume of water between cells to give the skin a fuller, firmer appearance. Glycerin binds to and stabilizes collagen, the protein responsible for giving skin its elasticity. Together, these combined effects contribute to a more youthful appearance.

Helianthus annuus seed oil is a non-volatile, unscented sunflower vegetable oil that is used as an emollient in cosmetics. The linoleic acid content of this seed oil of 60% (on average) has the ability to help restore, strengthen and soothe the skin. This oil also contains other beneficial fatty acids that the skin can use, including oleic, palmitic, stearic and a small amount of omega-3 linolenic acid.
Helianthus annuus seed oil is particularly beneficial for dry, dehydrated or environmentally compromised skin because its linoleic acid content helps the skin synthesize its own lipids (fats), including ceramides, visibly repairing its barrier and driving to smoother and healthier-looking skin.
Helianthus annuus seed oil also has a natural soothing effect on the skin, so it can be useful for reducing signs of stress or skin irritation. Research in infants with atopic dermatitis has shown that topical sunflower oil is a viable ingredient to alternate with topical steroids normally prescribed to control the symptoms of this skin disorder.

Medical Resources:

Pediatric Dermatology, August 2018, ePublication; and January-February 2013, pages 42-50
Chemicke Zvesti, May 2018, pages 2,607-2,615
International Journal of Molecular Sciences, December 2017, ePublication
Dermatology, October 2014, pages 230-239

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan found naturally in the body's connective tissue. Glycosaminoglycans are simply long unbranched carbohydrates, or sugars, called polysaccharides.
Over time, your body's reserves of hyaluronic acid decrease. Age is one reason, research shows, but environmental factors such as smoking and air pollution speed up the process, according to another study.
The good news is that topical products that contain hyaluronic acid, either as part of a moisturizer or serum, can help rebuild these depleted stores.

Hyaluronic acid can attract over 1,000 times its weight in water. It binds to water molecules and increases the water content of the skin.
Hyaluronic acid can help increase the moisture content of the skin, bringing various benefits to the skin, including reducing the appearance of wrinkles and improving wound healing, among others.
AH is the main component of what gives your skin structure and is responsible for that plump, hydrated look.

The main benefits of hyaluronic acid for the skin:

• Anti aging
• Skin hydration
• Anti-wrinkle
• Increases skin elasticity
• Can treat eczema
• Can treat facial redness

Hydrolyzed collagen is derived from various animal sources, including bovine (cattle), porcine (pigs), and marine (fish) collagen. The collagen is extracted from the connective tissue of these animals and then subjected to a hydrolysis process, which uses enzymes or heat to break down the protein into smaller peptides. These peptides can provide a variety of health benefits and are more easily absorbed by the body.
Increased skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness have been associated with improved skin health when hydrolyzed collagen is used. Our bodies create less collagen as we age, which can cause wrinkles, sagging and dryness. Using hydrolyzed collagen supplements can help restore collagen levels and improve the overall health and appearance of the skin.

Benefits for the skin:

• Supports skin health – increased skin hydration, elasticity and firmness has been associated with improved skin health when hydrolyzed collagen is used. As we age, our bodies produce less collagen, which can lead to dryness, sagging and wrinkles. Using hydrolyzed collagen supplements can help restore collagen levels and improve the overall health and appearance of your skin.

It is part of the Darkout component.

Inulin is an active skin care ingredient and humectant. This is used to increase the skin's tolerance and maintain its natural defenses. It's a type of prebiotic – a non-living ingredient that helps feed the good bacteria – that ensures our skin's microbiome is protected and perfectly balanced for overall skin health.

Benefits of prebiotic inulin in skin care:

• Rebalances the skin microbiome: Think of the microbiota as a small army of bacteria living on the top surface of the skin to help strengthen the skin barrier. Applying prebiotic inulin is like giving them a hearty meal – or even shiny new weapons – to ensure they can stay fit and always on guard. Our skin is exposed to so many external environmental factors, from weather changes to pollution, that this is an ingredient that all skin types and concerns can benefit from.
• Hydrates: We know how essential hydrated skin is to a happy barrier, so adding prebiotic inulin – which is great for moisture retention – is a no-brainer. As a humectant, it helps draw moisture into the skin from the environment, as well as slowing the evaporation of water to really lock it in.
• Soothes: The end result of protected and well-balanced skin is happier skin. By nourishing your skin's microbiome and keeping this invisible shield healthy, you'll strengthen your skin's barrier and find skin looking and feeling calmer all over. A must for sensitive skin and a handy tool to add to your routine when trying new products and assets.

Walnut shell powder is a natural exfoliant, it gently removes dull and dry skin cells to reveal soft, smooth, healthy skin. It helps to even out the skin tone and leaves the skin brighter and brighter.

Benefits include: removing dead cells and excess oils from the skin's surface; reducing acne and red spots

Kaolin is widely used in cosmetics because it absorbs excess sebum (the oily substance our skin produces) and smoothes the skin. Because it is a clay that is gentler on the skin, it is often used as an exfoliant.
It has moderate anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and skin-restoring effects, being successfully used in the treatment of acne.
Kaolin mattifies the skin by removing excess oil from the skin's surface. It can also be used on dry and sensitive skin, but with a reduced frequency. It is most often used on oily and acne-prone skin, where it has very good results in cleaning and shrinking pores. A 2012 study demonstrated that the topical application of kaolin masks increases the number of collagen fibers in the skin.

Medical Resources:

Effect of topical clay application on the synthesis of collagen in skin: an experimental study, Z Valenti 1, J Silva, WR Teodoro, AP Velosa, SBV Mello, Mar 2012

Lactic acid is one of the most popular alpha hydroxy acids available. It is a common ingredient in OTC skin care products. It is also used in stronger professional peels and treatments.

Lactic acid helps remove aging cells from the skin's surface by dissolving the bonds that hold them together (exfoliation).
Lactic acid also makes cell turnover faster and stimulates the processes by which your skin sheds old cells and replaces them with new ones (cell renewal) giving you a brighter complexion as well as smoother, softer skin.

Lactic acid is popular for two main reasons:
It can create real changes in the skin if used regularly.
It is one of the milder hydroxy acids used in skin care.

There are other possible benefits of lactic acid for your skin, including:

• Strengthens and stretches the skin
• Helps to clean pores
• Brightens and smoothes your skin
• Works as an effective antimicrobial
• Balances the skin microbiome for people with sensitive skin and acne
• Removing sunspots or age spots and smoothing or softening fine lines

Lavender is a widely used herb that belongs to the mint family. Lavender extract has anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties, which is why it is often used in the treatment of topical problems such as acne, eczema or psoriasis.
In vitro research indicates that components of lavender essential oil, especially linalool and linalyl acetate, can have harmful effects on the skin at a concentration of up to 0.25% when applied topically.

Medical Resources:

British Journal of Dermatology, August 2014, pages 292-297
Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, May 2008, pages 191-202
Contact Dermatitis, April 2008, pages 143-150 and January 2008, pages 9-14
Cell Proliferation, June 2004, pages 221-229
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, January-February 1992, pages 49-54 Vibrational spectroscopy and chemometric modeling: An economical and robust quality control method for lavender oil, Aug 2014, pg 234 – 240

Malic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that is said to be a natural exfoliant. It can be used to smooth wrinkles and fine lines, improve skin texture, unclog pores and improve skin overall. For this reason, malic acid is used in various skin care products.

Malic acid is part of a family of fruit acids called alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHAs stimulate exfoliation by interfering with the way your skin cells bond. As a result, dead skin is removed to make way for new layers of skin.

Skin care products containing malic acid can provide benefits that include:

• skin hydration
• exfoliation or removal of dead skin cells
• improved skin smoothness and tone
• reduction of wrinkles
• cleans and rejuvenates the skin
• ensure pH balance and hydration
• has an anti-aging effect and fades scars
• ensure fewer fine lines and wrinkles
• give the skin a more even tone
• give a smoother texture to the skin
• reduces blemishes
• prevents acne

Maris Aqua is used in many skin care applications for its many beneficial effects on the skin, including revitalization, rehydration, visible pore reduction and mattification. In addition, it is useful in preparations for atonic, mature or wrinkled skin, as well as in soothing foot baths and in the treatment of attacked, painful or irritated skin.

Improving the condition of the skin, sea water removes toxins and increases the renewal rate of epidermal cells. Furthermore, Maris Aqua leaves an antioxidant effect on the skin by reversing the carbonylation of proteins, reducing reactive radical or UV-induced damage. Inexpensive, natural and effective ingredient that preserves the youth, vitality and beauty of the skin.

Maris Limus is the mud extracted from the Dead Sea, a cosmetic ingredient with unique properties and composition on earth. It contains 21 essential minerals necessary for the skin and the proper functioning of the body. Historically, its use for the remedy of skin diseases is attested since 2000 years ago. Furthermore, its anti-inflammatory and anti-pain properties are one of the reasons why it is widely used in the treatment of dermatological conditions such as psoriasis, dermatitis, eczema, but also of joint diseases (chronic degenerative rheumatism, chronic inflammatory rheumatism, rheumatism articular). This type of mud has significantly superior skin cleansing and purifying capabilities due to specific concentrations of minerals – its ingredients extract impurities, toxins and sebum from the pores. In addition to its detoxifying and anti-inflammatory properties, the minerals in the Dead Sea mud allow the skin to stay hydrated and dramatically reduce skin flaking. Unlike many other ingredients that suit one skin type or another, the composition of Dead Sea mud makes it suitable for all skin types. Those with oily or combination skin benefit from its mattifying, purifying, sebum-regulating and antimicrobial properties, while its soothing and emollient properties support dry skin. The magnesium salts contained in the mud of the Dead Sea have the ability to strengthen the skin barrier and improve the elasticity of the skin. It also supports the production of collagen which in turn improves the texture and firmness of the skin.

Medical Resources:

1. Scientific evidence of the therapeutic effects of dead sea treatments: a systematic review, Apr 2012

2. Bathing in a magnesium-rich Dead Sea salt solution improves skin barrier function, enhances skin hydration, and reduces inflammation in atopic dry skin, Feb 2005;

3. Mud pack therapy in rheumatoid arthritis, Jun 1992, Antimicrobial properties of Dead Sea black mineral mud, May 2006

Maris Sal is the scientific name of the salt obtained from the Dead Sea.

It is an ingredient that contains trace elements and minerals. Dead Sea sea salt has unique properties, having a special composition of minerals, including magnesium, calcium, sodium and potassium, which eliminate dryness, dullness and irritation of the skin. Sea salt naturally detoxifies by absorbing toxins from the skin and also helps to gently exfoliate dead skin cells. The calcium content of sea salt helps clear clogged pores, which is great for acne-prone skin.

Numerous researches have shown that due to its unique composition, Dead Sea salt has an anti-wrinkle effect, reduces skin inflammation, improves the skin barrier function and increases skin hydration. Used as an ingredient in shampoo, it has extremely strong effects of increasing volume and reducing sebum from oily hair. One of the most well-known benefits of Dead Sea salts is the reduction of skin symptoms of psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis. Baths in saline solutions with salt from the Dead Sea reduce dryness, corny/scaly areas, irritation, itching and inflammation in the affected area. Due to the very high content of magnesium and bromine (the highest attested content), it reduces the symptoms of allergies on the skin, diminishes skin inflammations and diminishes the depth of wrinkles.

Medical Resources:

Scientific evidence of the therapeutic effects of dead sea treatments: a systematic review, Oct 2012

1. Helps to heal wounds faster – The high content of α-bisabolol and apigenin in chamomile extract will reduce inflammation, clean the wound, bring the necessary moisture to the damaged tissues and soothe any discomfort. This combination of effects will increase the rate of cell regeneration and speed up the healing process.
2. Minimizes Skin Aging – Premature skin aging can be caused by various different sources. These causes include ionizing radiation, excessive physical or psychological stress, excessive alcohol consumption, poor diet, and UV radiation. These various sources of free radicals accelerate the aging process of the cells that make up our skin.
α-Bisabolol has been shown to inhibit the production of new free radicals when present at concentrations of 7.7-31 microg/mL. Due to the high concentration of α-bisabolol in chamomile extract, it can serve as a deterrent to the production of new free radicals that could cause premature signs of aging.
3. It fades dark spots and hyperpigmentation – Hyperpigmentation is the technical term for darkening of the skin. This darkening is usually caused by contact dermatitis, inflammatory skin conditions such as acne and psoriasis, and contact with skin allergens. Similar to how the sun causes our bodies to produce melanin, tanning our skin, these conditions can cause the body to produce excess melanin at the site of irritation. It is responsible for the darkening of the skin.
α-Bisabolol has been shown to be able to inhibit melanogenesis, or the production of melanin by our body, which causes unwanted and unsightly hyperpigmentation of the skin. This makes chamomile an excellent ingredient in topical treatments for dark spots on the skin.
4. Relieves Eczema and Dermatitis – Due to the anti-inflammatory properties of chamomile extract, it can be used as a topical treatment for the symptoms of severe skin irritations such as eczema and dermatitis. The terpenoids chamazulene and α-bisabolol are responsible for reducing inflammation. Local application of Chamomile extract is effective because it allows the 2 terpenoids to inhibit the signaling of an enzyme involved in the inflammatory process.
5. Improves Skin Penetration – In addition to having its own benefits when applied topically, chamomile extract is also a penetration enhancer, which can improve the absorption of other topical products into the skin. Increased skin penetration makes chamomile extract a useful additive to moisturizing creams and lotions.
Although there are several other substances that can penetrate skin barriers, chamomile extract is particularly well suited for this. The success of chamomile extract as a skin penetrant can be attributed to its high terpene chamazulene and α-bisabolol content, as well as its natural and non-toxic nature.

Honey contains glucose, fructose, minerals, magnesium, potassium, calcium, sodium chloride, sulfur, iron, copper, zinc, vitamins B1, B2, B5, B3. Due to its properties, honey is one of the main ingredients for many moisturizing and nourishing body lotions, but it is also used as a base for various cosmetic masks. The dense and smooth texture of honey contributes to skin hydration, elasticity and shine. Antibacterial functions enhance the properties of smoothing, regenerating, hydrating and moisturizing agents contained in honey.

Thanks to the enzymes in the bees' stomachs, honey cannot develop microorganisms, so it can be stored for a long time and used as a natural preservative. The same principle is used for the development of cosmetic products based on honey or similar honey derivatives. The unique and complex chemical composition gives honey a lot of skin care properties: it is highly moisturizing, has soothing and antioxidant abilities, as well as significant antibacterial and antifungal properties. There is also a wealth of empirical evidence with emerging scientific support that honey dressings promote wound and burn healing.

Medical Resources:

Bogdanov, Stefan. "Honey composition." The honey book (2009);

Burlando, Bruno, and Laura Cornara. "Honey in dermatology and skin care: a review." Journal of cosmetic dermatology 12.4 (2013): 306-313;

Efem, SEE "Clinical observations on the wound healing properties of honey." British journal of Surgery 75.7 (1988): 679-681

Nicotinic acid (also known as niacin) and niacinamide (also known as nicotinamide) are two forms of vitamin B3 that can be converted into one another in the body. The general term vitamin B(3) is used for both. Topical application of niacinamide has a stabilizing effect on epidermal barrier function, seen as a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an improvement in the moisture content of the stratum corneum. Niacinamide leads to an increase in protein synthesis (for example, keratin), has a stimulating effect on the synthesis of ceramides, accelerates the differentiation of keratinocytes and increases the level of intracellular NADP. In the case of aging skin, topical application of niacinamide improves surface structure, smoothes wrinkles and inhibits photocarcinogenesis. It is possible to demonstrate anti-inflammatory effects in acne, rosacea and irritation. Due to its beneficial effects, niacinamide is an essential component in cosmetic products for the treatment of epidermal barrier degradation, skin aging, for the improvement of pigmentation disorders and for use on acne-prone skin.

Niacinamide is a type of vitamin B3, one of eight B vitamins that support many aspects of your health. Your body makes niacinamide when you have too much niacin in your body. Your body can also change an amino acid called tryptophan into niacinamide.

Niacinamide is a multi-functional skin care ingredient. It helps in the formation of keratin, a protein that maintains the health of the skin. It is also proven to make your skin stronger, smoother and brighter.
Niacinamide is used to treat acne and can help nourish and protect the skin, especially when used with other products like retinol. It is a powerful nutrient that rarely has side effects.

The top six benefits of niacinamide:

• Increases skin hydration – Niacinamide can improve the function of the skin's lipid barrier (a layer of water and oil that protects your skin). This helps lock in moisture and keep out pollutants or other potential irritants, making skin more hydrated and less sensitive.
• Calms skin redness – Niacinamide has been shown to reduce inflammation, which can help calm redness from conditions such as acne, rosacea and eczema. It can also soothe irritation caused by strong exfoliants such as retinol or glycolic acid, which remove dead cells from the skin's surface.
• May reduce the appearance of pores – Nothing has been proven to reduce the actual size of your pores. But niacinamide can help minimize their appearance, helping to keep skin smooth and clear. It can also help regulate the amount of oil your glands produce, which can prevent breakouts and clogged pores.
• May protect against skin cancer – Niacinamide is a close relative of another B vitamin called nicotinamide. Oral nicotinamide supplements may help prevent new skin cancer or precancerous spots in some people. But more studies are needed to confirm this benefit.
• Treats dark spots – Niacinamide is dermatologist approved for brightening skin tone. Some research suggests that skin care formulas with 5% niacinamide may also help lighten dark spots.
• Reduces wrinkles and fine lines – The antioxidant properties of this vitamin can help protect the skin and help it recover from damage caused by factors such as aging, sun and stress. Some research has shown that topical niacinamide can improve fine lines and wrinkles, as well as skin discoloration.

Octocrylene is a chemical sunscreen ingredient that, once absorbed into the skin, traps harmful UV rays before they cause damage to the skin's underlying cells. Sunscreens are generally divided into two categories. Physical formulas are based on minerals like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and work by sitting on top of the skin and deflecting the rays. The other category relies on chemicals (octocrylene being just one of several) that work once they're absorbed into the skin.

Octocrylene provides protection against UVA rays, which are responsible for the signs of aging.
It also protects against UVB rays: while certain sunscreen actives only protect against one type of UV rays, octocrylene protects against shorter UVA and UVB rays (the ones responsible for burning).
Works synergistically with other skin-protecting ingredients: Octocrylene is FDA-approved in concentrations up to 10 percent; By itself, octocrylene doesn't provide adequate protection, so it's always combined with other chemical sunscreen ingredients, all of which have their own percentage, he says.
Helps prevent skin cancer – absorbs UVB rays and shorter UVA rays, which are responsible for skin cancer.
Stabilizes sunscreen chemicals: Octocrylene is unique among similar ingredients in its ability to stabilize other sunscreen chemicals, especially avobenzone.
Octocrylene can also help improve the water resistance of a sunscreen.
Helps fight signs of aging: As it protects the skin from free radicals, octocrylene helps keep the skin against wrinkles and sun spots caused by the sun.
Protects against skin damage: Thanks to UVA protection, octocrylene protects the skin against sun damage.
Octocrylene has no significant side effects for most people, although some studies have shown that children are more prone to allergies to this ingredient. As such, children and people with sensitive skin or with problems such as rosacea or eczema can try to avoid the ingredient, as can breastfeeding women.

Medical Resources:

Review of the safety of octocrylene used as an ultraviolet filter in cosmetics, E Berardesca 1, T Zuberbier 2, M Sanchez Viera 3, M Marinovich 4, Nov 2019

Olive oil has a high content of fatty acids, including palmitic, oleic and linoleic acids as well as antioxidants and vitamin E.
Properties:
1. Olive seed oil is rich in vitamins and antioxidants – It contains vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin K and vitamin E, according to the International Olive Council. Vitamin E is an antioxidant and has antiaging benefits as it helps repair damaged skin cells and prevents UV damage caused by prolonged sun exposure.
In addition, olive oil contains two other major antioxidants: polyphenols and phytosterols, which help protect skin cells, stimulate collagen production, which naturally decreases as we age. Also, the anti-inflammatory ingredients it contains accelerate the healing of skin wounds.
2. Olive oil does not clog pores – Unlike many moisturizers that can clog pores and exacerbate existing skin conditions, olive oil penetrates deep into the skin while providing a cleansing effect. The combination of vitamin A and vitamin E in olive oil provides protection and helps repair skin cells from environmental damage.
3. Provides intense hydration – Olive oil is a natural moisturizer and emollient that is easily absorbed into the skin, containing natural lipids that contribute to the skin's sebum production, helping to keep the skin supple and elastic.

Olea europaea leaf extract is the extract from the leaves of the olive plant. Although the oil extracted from the olive fruit is well known for its skin care uses (especially to help protect the skin's moisture barrier).

Benefits for the skin:

• Fast healing of wounds – Whenever your skin is injured, your body works to heal the wound. A scar can form as part of the natural wound healing process. The appearance of the scar will depend on how well the wound heals. You can improve the body's wound healing process by supplementing with olive leaf extract.
• Protection against sun damage – UV exposure is responsible for most of the visible signs of skin aging, but fear not. Olive leaf extract can help protect skin from sun damage. The extract has been shown to slow melanin production and inhibit an enzyme that breaks down skin tissue.
• Treats hyperpigmentation – Do you have dark spots on your skin? Whenever you see dark spots, brown spots, and age spots, they all fall under skin conditions known as hyperpigmentation. Hyperpigmentation is the darkening of the skin due to excessive accumulation or uneven distribution of melanin in the skin. Some causes of hyperpigmentation include sun exposure, hormones, medications, and skin trauma.
• Reduces signs of aging – The breakdown of collagen and elastin in your skin, as well as factors such as stress, sun exposure and pollution, all have a profound impact on the appearance of your skin. Wrinkles might be a map of your journey in life, but premature aging doesn't have to be a fact of life.

It is a vegetable oil composed mostly of triglycerides of fatty acids.

Benefits: softens and calms the skin, which is why it is used in most cosmetic products. It is an excellent emollient and moisturizer and forms a barrier over the skin to prevent moisture loss. Suitable for dry and sensitive skin. Olus oil is a mixture of natural triglycerides of vegetable origin 100%. Olus oil-based products are easy to spread and leave the skin feeling smooth and velvety. This makes this natural ingredient the ideal base for rich creams, conditioners and butters. It is a multifunctional cream base with similar properties (stability against oxidation, occlusion and reduction of trans-epidermal water loss, TEWL) as conventional petroleum jelly. Olus oil has a very long shelf life.

Olus Oil is therefore suitable for face and skin care, sun care, decorative cosmetics and is also used in hair and skin care products. Olus oil products are easy to spread and provide a smooth and velvety feel. When heated, Olus Oil is liquid and can be used like any other oil.
Olus oil can be used in personal care and cosmetic products that have a pH value in the range of 3.0 – 8.5.

Panthenol, also known as provitamin B5, is the alcoholic form of vitamin B5. Once applied locally, panthenol is quickly absorbed by the skin and turns into vitamin B5, having a moisturizing effect. Its main ability is that it prevents water loss from the skin (TEWL - trans epidermal water loss, PIA - imperceptible water loss) while retaining moisture in the skin. In addition to this, it has the ability to "bind" and retain other ingredients, not just moisture. It has many functions.
1. Moisturizing and hydrating
Mainly panthenol hydrates the skin. As a humectant, it draws moisture to the skin and holds water in the skin, allowing the skin to produce moisture and hydrate from within. Thanks to the protective barrier that panthenol creates, it reduces the risk of dehydration and dryness of the skin through evaporation and prevents the natural loss of water over time.
2. Anti-inflammatory
The moisturizing nature of panthenol also generates anti-inflammatory properties. Medical research has shown that panthenol was effective against redness and irritation induced by UV radiation. Panthenol works as a skin protector that reduces itching and irritation caused by external stimuli.
3. Wound healing
Combining panthenol with vitamin C, which is also famous for helping collagen production, stimulates the skin's healing process. 4. Thanks to its emollient properties, it has the ability to protect the skin's natural barrier against bacteria, dehydration and allergens.

Persea gratissima is the Latin name for avocado, and the oil from this fruit is an excellent source of skin-repairing fatty acids, including omega-3 linolenic acid, omega-6 linoleic acid, oleic acid and beta sitosterol. They work on the skin's surface to retain moisture and prevent water loss that can lead to signs of dehydrated skin.
Avocado oil not only restores, smoothes and softens the skin, it is also able to visibly calm the skin and is a good source of natural antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, D and E. On compromised skin, the oil has been shown to of avocado boosts the skin's hydroxyproline content, an amino acid that plays a key role in strengthening the feeling of firmness, along with strengthening the skin's barrier.
Avocado seed oil is a good source of a group of antioxidants known as polyphenols, which includes catechin, epicatechin, and 3-leucoanthocyanidins. They have a synergistic effect on neutralizing many types of free radicals before they can damage the skin.

Pisum sativum (pea extract) is an anti-aging elasticizing cosmetic ingredient that protects and repairs the skin known as protease.
Pisum Sativum, known commercially as Proteasyl™ is a class of protein extracted from the seeds of Pisum sativum (pea) that inhibits proteases and modulates immune responses. The pea goes through an exclusive extraction/purification process to create the extract with anti-aging, protective, repairing and skin-defending properties.

Benefits of Pisum Sativum for the skin:
It has anti-elastase, anti-collagenase and anti-free radical properties.

• Protects dermal proteins: anti-aging effect – Protects collagen and elastin against the harmful effects of proteases activated during aging and stress. Proteasyl strengthens the rate of activity of protease inhibitors, helping to restore the balance between proteases.
• Protects and repairs epidermal proteins – Against damage induced by proteases activated by environmental aggressions (pollution, stress, UV...).
• Strengthens skin elasticity – Anti-aging effect for weakened atonic skin
• Long-lasting hydroregulator

Propolis has well-documented antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral effects. It provides soothing, moisturizing and sebum control benefits and is rich in flavonoids and phenolic substances.
Antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits: When used correctly and continuously, propolis can reduce redness and hyperpigmentation while targeting acne bacteria and easing inflammation associated with acne. For existing scars on the skin, it also speeds up the healing process.
Antioxidant Benefits: Propolis provides protection against environmental aggressors such as sunlight, pollution and radiation. It also neutralizes free radicals and helps prevent premature aging and dark spots (hyperpigmentation).

Prunus Amygdalus Amara (Bitter Almond) Kernel Oil is rich in nutrients that help maintain healthy skin and hair. Its unrefined nature allows it to retain more vitamins and essential fatty acids. This creates the perfect oil to use for massage and cosmetics.
Used topically, bitter almond oil helps hydrate the skin to maintain hydration and provides essential nutrients to support healthy skin. Bitter Almond Kernel Oil contains natural antioxidants to promote brighter, softer skin. With its vitamin E content, bitter almond oil helps restore hair's shine and increase resistance against environmental damage.

Medical Resources:

Keser, Serhat & Demir, Ersin & Yilmaz, Okkes. (2014). Some Bioactive Compounds and Antioxidant Activities of the Bitter Almond Kernel (Prunus dulcis var. amara). Journal- Chemical Society of Pakistan. 36. 922-930;

Sweet almond oil is a type of vegetable oil with powerful antioxidant properties. It is most often used as an emollient in cosmetics to help the skin retain moisture within. It is a rich source of triglycerides and fatty acids – oleic (55-86%), linoleic (7-35%), palmitic, stearic. It also contains vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant that helps prevent cell damage and reduce UV damage to the skin.

Apple fruit extracts have a high concentration of antioxidants to protect the skin from free radical damage that can lead to the weakening of the skin's protective barrier and the appearance of uneven pigmentation and dark spots.
The antioxidants in the apple extract act to protect collagen and elastin to maintain skin elasticity and suppleness.
Apple fruit extract also contains malic acid – a type of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Malic acid is a gentle exfoliant that removes the outer layers of dead skin cells to reveal the fresh, new skin underneath. Malic acid also helps to hydrate the skin. It has skin moisturizing properties, regulating the TEWL/PIA (Trans Epidermal Water Loss) process so that the skin retains more moisture in it. Apple extract, thanks to the content of AHA acids, stimulates the regeneration of cells on the surface of the skin.

Rosa canina is a climbing species and wild rose. It is native to Western Asia, the NW region of Africa and Europe. It bears small white to pale pink flowers. The fruits of this plant called rose hips have been used for many years as food and medicine. Rose hips contain many active constituents such as vitamin C, sugar, pectin, flavonoids, phenolic acids, amino acids, essential oil and organic acids. However, it is well known for its high phenolic acid content. Also, the seeds are rich in oils and mineral substances, such as linolenic, oleic, palmitic, stearic and arachidonic acid.

Use and benefits:

Rosehip extract (the fruit of the Rosa Canina plant) is used for its antioxidant properties because, as mentioned earlier, it has a high content of phenolic acid, which is an antioxidant. This is why, when used on the skin, it penetrates deep into the skin and protects the skin from whatever attacks it in the polluted environment in which we live. If this damage is left untreated it can lead to premature skin aging with fine lines and wrinkles. So the antioxidant content of this extract can make your skin look and feel better. It also contains many fatty acids, which are essential for the skin but gradually decrease as we age. Upon application, the skin is nourished by the fatty acids it contains, and any dryness of the skin can be easily remedied. It also helps to cleanse the skin by loosening the layer of dead skin cells that adhere to the top layer of skin, which can be easily removed with a gentle washing action. In addition, it evens out skin tone. The flower extract conditions and refreshes the skin, restoring its natural glow.

Rose water has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antioxidant properties, with general benefits including the ability to soothe skin, minimize pores and reduce fine lines.
Since rose water is an antibacterial, it can heal acne scars, along with scars from cuts or burns.
As an antioxidant, Rosa Damascena helps protect skin cells from damage. It can act as a barrier between the skin and all the external elements it comes into contact with throughout the day – such as toxins, sunlight, free radicals and pollutants.
Antioxidants are also a powerful anti-aging tool. That's why rose water can diminish wrinkles and fine lines over time.
Rose water has a great ability to soothe irritated skin, reduce redness, swelling and itching. This also makes rose water a powerful ingredient for sensitive skin conditions such as eczema, rosacea or psoriasis. Having mild astringent properties, it can be used as a toner for oily or acne-prone skin, being much more suitable than alcohol-containing toners that completely eliminate natural sebum, drying the skin very strongly.

Medical Resources:

Iran J Basic Med Sci. 2011 Jul-Aug; 14(4): 295–307., Pharmacological Effects of Rosa Damascena

Rosemary leaf extract has several different functions. It has antioxidant capabilities, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and antifungal benefits.
Rosmarinic acid is the largest component of rosemary leaf extract and has a strong soothing effect on the skin that can be helpful in treating many conditions, including severe eczema such as psoriasis and dermatitis and skin allergies.
Rosemary's antioxidant and antibacterial properties make it particularly suitable for acne. The whole plant extract has been shown to not only reduce inflammation associated with acne, but to directly fight a bacteria that causes acne breakouts.
The anti-inflammatory properties of rosemary extract may help reduce skin inflammation. It also supports the healing of burns and soothes the skin.
Its antioxidant properties strengthen blood capillaries, helping to reduce the signs of aging on the skin and help it look firmer and younger, reducing fine lines.

Rosemary leaf extract should not be confused with rosemary oil, which contains high concentrations of volatile fragrance components that can cause significant skin irritation.

Sage extract is obtained from the leaves of the plant Salvia officinalis, also known as the sage plant. The plant is a perennial, evergreen shrub with blue to purple flowers and is cultivated in many countries around the world, mainly in the Mediterranean region. Sage extract is commonly used in cosmetics and personal care products for its various benefits.

Benefits for the skin:

• Antioxidant properties: Sage extract is rich in antioxidants that help protect the skin from environmental stressors such as pollution, UV radiation and other harmful toxins. Antioxidants present in sage extract help prevent free radical damage to the skin, reducing the signs of aging.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: Sage extract has anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness. It can be used in skin care products to soothe the skin and reduce inflammation caused by various skin conditions.
• Antibacterial Properties: Sage extract has antibacterial properties that help prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin. It can be used in skin care products to prevent acne and other skin infections caused by bacteria.
• Astringent Properties: Sage extract has astringent properties that help tighten and firm the skin. It can be used in skin care products to reduce the appearance of pores and improve skin texture.
• Moisturizing properties: Sage extract contains humectants that help retain moisture in the skin, making it an excellent ingredient for hydrating skin care products.

Sambucus is a genus of flowering plant also known by the common name of Elderberry. The best known and most studied species of Sambucus, Sambucus nigra or black elder, produces berries (called elder) and flowers (called elderflower), both of which have a long history of use in traditional and folk medicine.

Benefits for the skin:

• Anti-inflammatory: elderberry extract has anti-inflammatory properties that can help soothe irritated or inflamed skin. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products designed for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
• Antioxidant: Elderberry extract is also a powerful antioxidant, which means it can help protect your skin from free radical damage. Free radicals are unstable molecules that can damage cells and contribute to the aging process.
• Improves skin brightness: Studies have shown that elderberry extract can help brighten skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots and hyperpigmentation. This makes it an ideal ingredient for products designed to even out skin tone and improve overall skin radiance.
• Moisturizer: Elderberry extract is rich in vitamins and minerals that are essential for healthy skin, such as vitamin A, vitamin C and potassium. These nutrients can help nourish and hydrate the skin, leaving it looking soft, smooth and supple.
• Anti-aging: Elderberry extract is also rich in flavonoids and anthocyanins, which are powerful antioxidants that can help prevent and reduce the signs of aging. These compounds can help protect the skin from damage caused by UV radiation and other environmental stressors and help improve skin elasticity and firmness.

Sesame oil has many beneficial properties for the skin:
1. Antioxidant – has the ability to fight against damage caused by free radicals or unstable molecules that can damage the cellular structure of the skin.
2. Antimicrobial – can kill harmful microorganisms or stop their growth.
3. Anti-inflammatory – can reduce inflammation and swelling.

Since non-comedogenic oils do not clog pores, sesame oil can work well on acne-prone skin. The anti-inflammatory properties of sesame oil can also add to its acne-fighting abilities.

Jojoba oil is lighter than other face oils and absorbs easily into the skin. It penetrates deep to soothe and soften/emollify while providing an excellent moisturizing effect.

It does not evaporate like water-based moisturizers, which is very important when the skin is exposed to the environment. Studies have shown that jojoba oil provides a substantial layer of long-lasting moisture.

Jojoba is full of nutrients like vitamin E and B, as well as antioxidants and minerals like chromium, copper and zinc, which nourish and protect the skin. Organic, cold pressed jojoba oil has the highest level of antioxidants and nutrients.

Effects:
1. It helps slow down the appearance of aging and can help fade fine lines and wrinkles. In dermatological tests it was shown that Jojoba Oil increases the suppleness of the skin and the effect was still present as time passed. Tests also showed that continuous use of jojoba oil resulted in a reduction of shallow facial lines.
2. Moisturizer - soothes sunburns and helps reduce the chances of exfoliation that occur as a result.
3. Anti-inflammatory – helps tame dryness and cracking, reduces redness caused by dryness, soothes the effects of eczema and rosacea, and keeps skin calm and comfortable. The vitamin E and B-complex vitamins in jojoba oil help repair the skin and control damage.
4. Anti microbial – helps prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin. This property makes it useful for those with acne and also provides an additional wound healing benefit.

Jojoba oil is recommended for people with sensitive skin (including psoriasis and eczema) due to its gentle nature. Applying jojoba oil to compromised skin can help reduce breakouts.

Sodium hydroxide is a common ingredient in skin care products such as soap, facial cleansers, body cream, and lotion. The chemical compound is also known as lye or caustic soda.

Sodium hydroxide is used to balance and maintain the pH level of skin care products. Typically, skin care formulations contain small amounts of sodium hydroxide in low concentrations. This prevents the powerful ingredient from causing chemical burns, a possible side effect of high concentrations of sodium hydroxide.

Although the chemical is considered safe as an ingredient in skin care, it can still cause an unexpected reaction in sensitive skin. Some symptoms of an unsafe reaction include hives, scaly skin, inflammation, redness, and irritation.

Sodium PCA acts as a humectant to trap water in the skin: Like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, it "increases the water content of the upper layers of the skin by drawing moisture from the surrounding air," says Steinmetz.
The biggest difference between it and the other two?
It can be up to twice as effective as glycerin in maintaining moisture levels in the skin, but AH still holds the upper hand among the three. Sodium PCA can hold up to 250 times its weight in water, while hyaluronic acid holds about 1,000 times. Sodium PCA is also more expensive, so HA is more commonly used and better known. Sodium PCA can do some things that hyaluronic acid cannot.

Benefits for the skin:

• Reduces the appearance of wrinkles: Sodium PA helps the skin achieve that plump, youthful appearance thanks to its ability to increase the skin's water content.
• Restores the skin barrier: it returns to its natural presence as part of the skin's natural hydration bills. Not only does it hydrate the skin by drawing water to it, but it also helps the skin retain that water better by strengthening the protective barrier. This makes it an especially great choice for people dealing with conditions where the barrier is compromised, such as eczema.
• Anti-inflammatory properties: not only is sodium PCA itself non-irritating but it can actually help reduce inflammation.
• Treats Eczema: Its inflammation-reducing qualities make it an excellent choice for eczema sufferers.
• It is non-irritating: For the most part, sodium PCA is non-irritating and is safe for use with all skin types.

Tartaric acid is a natural dicarboxylic acid. This means that it is an organic compound found in some plants that contains two functional carboxylic acids.

Benefits for the skin:

• Acts as a mild exfoliant – like other AHAs, tartaric acid helps to naturally exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells from the top layer of the skin. This can help improve the texture and appearance of the skin – plus it allows other products to penetrate the skin more easily.
• Provides anti-aging effects – tartaric acid has antioxidant properties that provide anti-aging benefits for your skin. Like the fruits and plants it comes from, like grapes and citrus, it's a great source of antioxidants that help protect your skin from free radical damage.
• Defends against cellular damage caused by factors such as sunlight/UV rays and environmental pollution – Over time, it can reduce the appearance of dark spots, uneven skin tone and, with the help of other anti-aging products, wrinkles and fine lines.
• Works well with moisturizers to boost hydration – tartaric acid has the ability to act as a pH adjuster and product stabilizer. It helps maintain the pH range of other skin care products so they can continue to work as intended.

Tasmannia lanceolata, commonly known as Tasmanian Pepper or Mountain Pepper, is a shrub native to the temperate rainforests and woodlands of southeastern Australia. Tasmanian Pepperberry is a fruit of the Tasmannia lanceolata tree that has a pepper-like flavor with a combination of woody sweetness and herbal undertones. It is considered to be a superfood for the skin as it is rich in antioxidants that revitalize and rejuvenate the skin, treat dry, itchy and inflamed skin. Active ingredients like Flavone Glycosides, Rutin, Polygodial, Chlorogenic Acid and Anthocyanins attribute to its skin care benefits.

This natural fruit extract has the following benefits:

• Acts as an anti-allergen: Its anti-allergic property is effective in treating various allergic skin reactions.
• Soothes inflamed skin: Its anti-inflammatory property soothes skin inflammation caused by sunburn.
• Fights signs of premature aging: It is rich in anthocyanic and chlorogenic acids, which are powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from oxidative damage.
• Treats acne: Its antimicrobial property prevents skin infections and its anti-inflammatory property has a soothing effect on inflamed skin, thus reducing acne and scarring.
• Reduces dark circles: Contains a chemical compound - Rustin which is known to strengthen capillaries, effectively reducing dark circles around the eyes.

Titanium dioxide is a non-irritating mineral that provides sun protection against UVA and UVB radiation, blocking their absorption in the skin. It is hydrophilic, non-comedogenic that washes off the skin easily, making it suitable for those who have problems with clogged pores, breakouts and skin sensitivity.

The best protective products that contain titanium dioxide have it in micronized form. This provides greater ease of spreading on the skin and greater protection against UV radiation than the non-micronized version. It is added to formulas in the form of a white powder and therefore can leave a white film. It is considered a safe ingredient, not having the power to penetrate the skin in the deep layers and not entering the bloodstream.

Also known as cocoa seed butter, this active ingredient is:
1. Effective in maintaining the moisture balance of the skin by restoring the lipid layer of the skin
2. Excellent source of polyphenol antioxidants that help protect against free radical damage
3. Helps improve the appearance of cellulite and tightens the skin
4. It's a form of superfood packed with nutrients and antioxidants to help nourish skin and make it healthy

Tocopherol, or alpha-tocopherol, is the most active form of vitamin E. It supports water retention in the layers of the skin to prevent dehydration, creating elasticity and a youthful appearance.

One of the most popular features of vitamin E is its ability to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier. Its powerful antioxidant abilities make it a favorite ingredient for soothing inflammation and areas affected by redness.

Because of tocopherol's ability to alleviate dryness, redness, and flaking, it is often used to alleviate uncomfortable symptoms associated with eczema and psoriasis. Although limited research has shown that tocopherol may indeed help with psoriasis symptoms, it does not necessarily address the underlying problem and is not recommended for those with severe cases of psoriasis.
Whether caused by scarring, hormones, or excessive sun exposure, hyperpigmentation is a common concern.
Evidence suggests that tocopherol may help hyperpigmentation in topical treatments, but only moderately if not combined with vitamin C.
The antioxidant power of vitamin E is helpful in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, giving the skin a firmer appearance.

Wheat germ extract (Triticum Vulgare) is an aqueous liposome dispersion of a fraction containing lipids and carbohydrates, isolated from plants (cereals) and purified. It contains phospholipids and glycolipids, which are essential for the reconstruction of the lipid layers of the stratum corneum, and carbohydrates that play an important role in keeping the skin moist.
Wheat germ extract supports the natural water retention properties of the stratum corneum by reducing transepidermal water loss and thus maintaining the physical flexibility of the skin.
Wheat germ extract is an active ingredient in regenerating and hydrating skin care products, smoothing fine lines and providing volume and density.
Contains linoleic acid that promotes collagen synthesis. Collagen maintains the structure of the skin and thus keeps the skin free from wrinkles and fine lines that are signs of aging. It also accelerates the healing process of the skin and reduces the appearance of scars.
Linoleic acid also helps manage acne breakouts by preventing blackheads from penetrating the skin.

Medical Resources:

A Triticum vulgare Extract Exhibits Regenerating Activity During the Wound Healing Process, 14 Jan 2020

Grape seed extract varies depending on the solvent used and the procedure, but in common it contains proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, vitamins and minerals. The extract appears as a light to medium amber liquid with a characteristic odor. Grape seed oil contains linoleic, oleic, palmitic and stearic acids. In addition, it contains vitamins A, D and E.
Grapeseed oil is quickly absorbed into the skin, leaving it soft and smooth. It can also provide a light toning effect. Grape seed extract is nutritious and has anti-irritant and antioxidant properties. It scavenges free radicals, but also protects against oxidative damage caused by pollution. It can prevent premature skin aging and help gradually diminish fine lines and wrinkles. It is also a suitable ingredient for sensitive and irritated skin.

Zinc oxide is a white powdery or inorganic chemical compound obtained from the oxidation of zinc. Oxidation makes zinc a powerful ingredient that can be used to treat several skin conditions, including inflammation, sun damage, acne, etc. Zinc oxide has been used extensively as a powerful sunscreen ingredient for centuries. It reflects UVA and UVB rays. In this way, it prevents harmful rays from penetrating the skin. However, the effectiveness of this ingredient is completely dependent on its concentration.
Different products use different percentages of zinc oxide, which is why the effect varies. The more zinc oxide there is on the skin, the more it is protected from sun damage. Sunscreens typically contain 25% to 30% zinc oxide.
Zinc has a natural ability to heal wounds. Skin injuries such as sunburn, sensitivity can be relieved by topical use of zinc oxide which soothes the sensations and accelerates the healing/healing process.
Zinc oxide works as an astringent when applied topically. It controls the formation of sebum under the skin and prevents the production of excess sebum, thus reducing the risk of acne.

Studies have shown that zinc's anti-inflammatory properties make it beneficial in treating inflammatory skin conditions. It is usually mixed with other antibacterial agents that together help minimize the pain, severity, and appearance of acne breakouts. Zinc oxide is antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and can heal wounds. All these qualities help zinc oxide to decrease the chances of bacterial infection.